{"id":51349,"date":"2024-05-18T16:18:37","date_gmt":"2024-05-18T21:18:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtoursperu.com\/blog\/7-particularidades-de-la-plaza-de-armas-del-cusco\/"},"modified":"2025-04-24T09:33:33","modified_gmt":"2025-04-24T14:33:33","slug":"cusco-7-secrets-of-the-main-square","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtoursperu.com\/en\/blog\/cusco-7-secrets-of-the-main-square\/","title":{"rendered":"Cusco: 7 Secrets of the Main Square"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Captivated by the beauty, mystique, and cosmopolitan vibe of Cusco’s historic and urban heart<\/a>, travellers focus on the cast-iron fountain topped with the image of the Inca<\/strong>, the Renaissance fa\u00e7ade of the Cathedral, and the stone-arched portals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They also take the opportunity to buy a craft or two, enjoy a good local or international dish<\/strong>, and finally, sit on a bench to watch time go by and perhaps make friends with whom to share their experience in the ancient Huacaypata<\/strong>, as the current Main Square was once known.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But these aren\u2019t the only attractions. The square holds some hidden secrets<\/strong> and fascinating details often overlooked. We invite you to delve into these curiosities that will transport you through the time and history of ancient Cusco.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. The commemorative plaque for Tupac Amaru II<\/strong><\/strong><\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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In 1780 and 1781, the rebellious cry of Tupac Amaru II shook the Cusco mountains and the foundations of the Viceroyalty of Peru<\/a>, which extended over much of South America.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The indigenous leader<\/a>, born Jos\u00e9 Gabriel Condorcanqui <\/strong>in Surimana (Canas province, Cusco), began his uprising on November 4, 1780, in Tinta with the capture of the corregidor Antonio de Arriaga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After several clashes, Tupac Amaru II was captured on April 6, 1781<\/strong>. In May, the official Jos\u00e9 Antonio de Arreche issued a condemning sentence against Tupac Amaru II, his wife Micaela Bastidas<\/strong>, and their key supporters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sentence was carried out on May 18 in Cusco\u2019s Main Square. That day, the leader\u2019s limbs were tied to four horses. They intended to dismember<\/strong> him but failed. Ultimately, he was decapitated.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tupac Amaru II’s suffering is commemorated by a plaque located<\/strong> in the main hall of the National University of San Antonio Abad in Cusco, honouring one of the most significant leaders of indigenous resistance<\/strong> in Spanish America.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. The Cathedral Clock<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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When you stand in front of the Cathedral, take a close look at the clock on its fa\u00e7ade<\/strong>, and you’ll notice the hours are marked with Roman numerals. Pay special attention to the number four<\/strong>, and you might be surprised.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the Cathedral\u2019s clock, the number four isn’t written as IV<\/strong>, but as IIII. Is this an error that no one dared correct for centuries?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The answer is no. It\u2019s known that early mechanical clocks used IIII for visual symmetry<\/strong>. This is one theory. Another suggests a clockmaker made a mistake<\/strong>, angering a king who had him executed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Following this tragedy, his colleagues\u2014 in a brave act of rebellion<\/strong>\u2014 began using IIII on all their clocks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. The Rodney Collin Plaque<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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“Here Rodney Collin gave his life<\/strong> to project harmony, May 3, 1956,” reads a plaque on the floor of the left nave of Cusco Cathedral.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Few notice it, and those who do may not know that Collin<\/a> was a British mystic thinker and writer, renowned<\/strong> for his interest in esoteric philosophy and traditional wisdom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

His writings on the Fourth Way<\/em> blend psychology, mysticism, and personal development. His thoughts remain influential <\/strong>in esoteric and philosophical circles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Collin\u2019s connection to Cusco ended tragically. On May 3, 1956, as noted on the plaque, the British mystic suffered a heart attack and fell from the Cathedral\u2019s<\/strong> bell tower.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This marked the end of a life devoted to spiritual exploration and mystical teachings.<\/strong> Collin left behind works such as The Development of Light<\/em> and The Theory of Celestial Influence<\/em>, which explore spiritual evolution, consciousness, and the purpose of human life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4. <\/strong>The Inca Who Was an Apache<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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An Apache Instead of an Inca <\/strong>on the Ornamental Fountain in the Main Square It\u2019s hard to believe, but it\u2019s true: an Apache once adorned the ornamental fountain in Cusco’s Main Square. This unusual situation occurred last century when American Albert Giesecke<\/a>, rector of the National University of San Antonio Abad in Cusco, bought a sculpture of a North American Indian<\/strong> in Philadelphia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Various accounts exist, but it’s clear that the sculpture was placed atop the Republican-style cast-iron fountain<\/strong>, which was purchased from the American company Janes, Kirtland & Co and installed in the square in 1872, where it remained for years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2011, however, the Apache figure was removed by Cusco’s mayor, Luis Fl\u00f3rez, who replaced it with a representation <\/strong>of an Inca to better reflect the city\u2019s historical roots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This decision sparked debate: some viewed it as an attack on the city’s historical and cultural heritage<\/strong>, while others saw it as a rightful reclaiming <\/strong>of Andean and pre-Columbian roots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Regardless of the controversy, the statue now depicts Manco Capac<\/strong>, the first Inca ruler, and remains a major feature of the Main Square. Be sure to snap a photo and remember this intriguing chapter of Cusco’s history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5. Foundation Inscription<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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When Cusco was threatened by Manco Inca’s<\/a> rebellious forces, Santiago Ap\u00f3stol<\/strong> is said to have descended from the heavens to fight alongside the conquistadors.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This narrative mirrors the Iberian triumph over the Moors and was used to justify Spanish expansion and conquest<\/strong> in the New World.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, the inscriptions in the Temple of El Triunfo within Cusco Cathedral are difficult to read, so here they are transcribed for you:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first inscription reads: \u201cIn this place, years later the church, where Mary Mother of God placed her foundations, showcasing her power, making this site heavenly and a victory of the battle of conquest, astonishing countless Indians<\/strong>, extinguishing the fire of these barbarians, protecting the Spaniards<\/strong>, planting the faith and converting these gentiles, choosing as patroness of her triumphant altars, year 1664.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second inscription states: \u201cFrom this same site, the Patron of Spain, Santiago Ap\u00f3stol, was seen<\/strong> coming forth to overthrow the barbarians in defense of the evangelical preaching, and astonished idolatry revered the Thunderbolt\u2019s son, paying homage to the Spanish scepter in battle. Year 1664.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inscriptions of faith and conquest, <\/strong>divine assistance to solidify Spanish presence in Inca Cusco. This is how the history of one of the world\u2019s most remarkable cities<\/strong> was written. You\u2019ll see this when you\u2019re here, walking its streets and exploring the Main Square.<\/p>\n\n\n

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6:<\/strong> The Cross of Calle del Medio<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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At the intersection of Plaza de Armas and Plaza Regocijo, on a street known as Calle del Medio due to its location, you’ll find a carved stone cross<\/strong> standing on a sturdy base.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This colonial-era religious symbol has a unique story recounted in Tradiciones Cusque\u00f1as<\/em> by Clorinda Matto de Turner<\/a>, a key figure in Peruvian feminist and indigenist literature.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matto de Turner\u2019s tale reveals that the prosperous merchant Francisco Cartagena<\/strong> had the loyal friendship and support of Ferm\u00edn Alarc\u00f3n and his wife, Maruja. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Their trust was so deep that when Francisco had to leave the city for family reasons, he entrusted all his business <\/strong>and property <\/strong>to Ferm\u00edn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Years later, when Francisco returned to Cusco, he was shocked to find that his friend completely ignored <\/strong>him. Desperate, Francisco challenged Ferm\u00edn to deny before God and at a mass that they knew each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ferm\u00edn did so, dishonouring his oath and attempting to deceive God<\/strong>. This was his grave mistake. From that moment on, Ferm\u00edn’s life deteriorated<\/strong>, and he tragically died at the corner of Calle del Medio. The cross you see today was later erected in his memory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After her husband\u2019s death, Maruja, either out of fear or remorse, returned all the goods to Francisco<\/strong>. This marked the end of a dark chapter of betrayal and greed, and served as a lesson on the importance of loyalty and honesty.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

7. The House of the Carnes Portal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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In 1950, Cusco was shaken by a powerful earthquake. After the quake, an old three-story house<\/strong> located at the corner of Portal de Carnes and Calle Suecia had to be demolished to improve traffic flow in the Plaza de Armas.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It wasn’t the only structure affected; the adjacent arch, which allowed motor vehicle access, was replaced by a semicircular arch with three arches<\/strong>, which still serves as the pedestrian entrance to Calle Suecia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The photograph shows the House of the Carnes Portal<\/strong>, originally known as the Portal del Comisario because it was home to the chief inquisitor<\/strong>. It was later renamed Portal de Carnes or Portal de Zapatos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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