Captivated by the beauty, mystique, and cosmopolitan vibe of Cusco’s historic and urban heart, travellers focus on the cast-iron fountain topped with the image of the Inca, the Renaissance façade of the Cathedral, and the stone-arched portals.
They also take the opportunity to buy a craft or two, enjoy a good local or international dish, and finally, sit on a bench to watch time go by and perhaps make friends with whom to share their experience in the ancient Huacaypata, as the current Main Square was once known.
But these aren’t the only attractions. The square holds some hidden secrets and fascinating details often overlooked. We invite you to delve into these curiosities that will transport you through the time and history of ancient Cusco.
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1. The commemorative plaque for Tupac Amaru II
In 1780 and 1781, the rebellious cry of Tupac Amaru II shook the Cusco mountains and the foundations of the Viceroyalty of Peru, which extended over much of South America.
The indigenous leader, born José Gabriel Condorcanqui in Surimana (Canas province, Cusco), began his uprising on November 4, 1780, in Tinta with the capture of the corregidor Antonio de Arriaga.
After several clashes, Tupac Amaru II was captured on April 6, 1781. In May, the official José Antonio de Arreche issued a condemning sentence against Tupac Amaru II, his wife Micaela Bastidas, and their key supporters.
The sentence was carried out on May 18 in Cusco’s Main Square. That day, the leader’s limbs were tied to four horses. They intended to dismember him but failed. Ultimately, he was decapitated.
Tupac Amaru II’s suffering is commemorated by a plaque located in the main hall of the National University of San Antonio Abad in Cusco, honouring one of the most significant leaders of indigenous resistance in Spanish America.
2. The Cathedral Clock
When you stand in front of the Cathedral, take a close look at the clock on its façade, and you’ll notice the hours are marked with Roman numerals. Pay special attention to the number four, and you might be surprised.
In the Cathedral’s clock, the number four isn’t written as IV, but as IIII. Is this an error that no one dared correct for centuries?
The answer is no. It’s known that early mechanical clocks used IIII for visual symmetry. This is one theory. Another suggests a clockmaker made a mistake, angering a king who had him executed.
Following this tragedy, his colleagues— in a brave act of rebellion— began using IIII on all their clocks.
3. The Rodney Collin Plaque
“Here Rodney Collin gave his life to project harmony, May 3, 1956,” reads a plaque on the floor of the left nave of Cusco Cathedral.
Few notice it, and those who do may not know that Collin was a British mystic thinker and writer, renowned for his interest in esoteric philosophy and traditional wisdom.
His writings on the Fourth Way blend psychology, mysticism, and personal development. His thoughts remain influential in esoteric and philosophical circles.
Collin’s connection to Cusco ended tragically. On May 3, 1956, as noted on the plaque, the British mystic suffered a heart attack and fell from the Cathedral’s bell tower.
This marked the end of a life devoted to spiritual exploration and mystical teachings. Collin left behind works such as The Development of Light and The Theory of Celestial Influence, which explore spiritual evolution, consciousness, and the purpose of human life.
4. The Inca Who Was an Apache
An Apache Instead of an Inca on the Ornamental Fountain in the Main Square It’s hard to believe, but it’s true: an Apache once adorned the ornamental fountain in Cusco’s Main Square. This unusual situation occurred last century when American Albert Giesecke, rector of the National University of San Antonio Abad in Cusco, bought a sculpture of a North American Indian in Philadelphia.
Various accounts exist, but it’s clear that the sculpture was placed atop the Republican-style cast-iron fountain, which was purchased from the American company Janes, Kirtland & Co and installed in the square in 1872, where it remained for years.
In 2011, however, the Apache figure was removed by Cusco’s mayor, Luis Flórez, who replaced it with a representation of an Inca to better reflect the city’s historical roots.
This decision sparked debate: some viewed it as an attack on the city’s historical and cultural heritage, while others saw it as a rightful reclaiming of Andean and pre-Columbian roots.
Regardless of the controversy, the statue now depicts Manco Capac, the first Inca ruler, and remains a major feature of the Main Square. Be sure to snap a photo and remember this intriguing chapter of Cusco’s history.
5. Foundation Inscription
When Cusco was threatened by Manco Inca’s rebellious forces, Santiago Apóstol is said to have descended from the heavens to fight alongside the conquistadors.
This narrative mirrors the Iberian triumph over the Moors and was used to justify Spanish expansion and conquest in the New World.
Today, the inscriptions in the Temple of El Triunfo within Cusco Cathedral are difficult to read, so here they are transcribed for you:
The first inscription reads: “In this place, years later the church, where Mary Mother of God placed her foundations, showcasing her power, making this site heavenly and a victory of the battle of conquest, astonishing countless Indians, extinguishing the fire of these barbarians, protecting the Spaniards, planting the faith and converting these gentiles, choosing as patroness of her triumphant altars, year 1664.”
The second inscription states: “From this same site, the Patron of Spain, Santiago Apóstol, was seen coming forth to overthrow the barbarians in defense of the evangelical preaching, and astonished idolatry revered the Thunderbolt’s son, paying homage to the Spanish scepter in battle. Year 1664.”
Inscriptions of faith and conquest, divine assistance to solidify Spanish presence in Inca Cusco. This is how the history of one of the world’s most remarkable cities was written. You’ll see this when you’re here, walking its streets and exploring the Main Square.
6: The Cross of Calle del Medio
At the intersection of Plaza de Armas and Plaza Regocijo, on a street known as Calle del Medio due to its location, you’ll find a carved stone cross standing on a sturdy base.
This colonial-era religious symbol has a unique story recounted in Tradiciones Cusqueñas by Clorinda Matto de Turner, a key figure in Peruvian feminist and indigenist literature.
Matto de Turner’s tale reveals that the prosperous merchant Francisco Cartagena had the loyal friendship and support of Fermín Alarcón and his wife, Maruja.
Their trust was so deep that when Francisco had to leave the city for family reasons, he entrusted all his business and property to Fermín.
Years later, when Francisco returned to Cusco, he was shocked to find that his friend completely ignored him. Desperate, Francisco challenged Fermín to deny before God and at a mass that they knew each other.
Fermín did so, dishonouring his oath and attempting to deceive God. This was his grave mistake. From that moment on, Fermín’s life deteriorated, and he tragically died at the corner of Calle del Medio. The cross you see today was later erected in his memory.
After her husband’s death, Maruja, either out of fear or remorse, returned all the goods to Francisco. This marked the end of a dark chapter of betrayal and greed, and served as a lesson on the importance of loyalty and honesty.
7. The House of the Carnes Portal
In 1950, Cusco was shaken by a powerful earthquake. After the quake, an old three-story house located at the corner of Portal de Carnes and Calle Suecia had to be demolished to improve traffic flow in the Plaza de Armas.
It wasn’t the only structure affected; the adjacent arch, which allowed motor vehicle access, was replaced by a semicircular arch with three arches, which still serves as the pedestrian entrance to Calle Suecia.
The photograph shows the House of the Carnes Portal, originally known as the Portal del Comisario because it was home to the chief inquisitor. It was later renamed Portal de Carnes or Portal de Zapatos.
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