From so much romantic bitterness, the Marquis is bound to end up in hospital. Everyone knows he’s no angel, but his situation would be different if his mate, the Admiral, hadn’t introduced him to Margarita, that slippery character known on the streets of Cusco as “the Coca Flower.”
A real gem of a woman who hangs out with some shady types she’s dubbed her “seven little devils,” according to what the well-informed neighbours say and broadcast far and wide, all stirred up by the clandestine romance between the Marquis and Margarita.
We’re not going to tell you what happens next for a simple reason: our tour of Cusco’s most famous streets has ended. Inca streets, colonial streets, picturesque streets, and perhaps even those complicit in loves and betrayals—streets whose names tempted us to write what you’ve just read.
Does imagination take flight on Cusco’s streets? Do they inspire you as you walk them? Does a city with so much history make you want to write or create your own stories?
If you want to find out, make the most of your visit to Cusco and explore these 12 streets we recommend—with calm and an open mind. You might end up feeling like a Marquis or an Admiral yourself.
Contents
1. Siete Angelitos Street
It is often said that good and evil are two sides of the same coin, but in Cusco’s Historic Centre, the situation is quite different. Here, the good and the bad, the sublime and the wicked, turned out to be two adjacent streets.
The story dates back to the colonial era when a street, famous for its passionate embraces and clandestine loves, began to be called Siete Diablitos, in clear reference to the seven deadly sins.
The scandalous situation led Blas de Bobadilla, who owned a house on the neighbouring street, to order religious iconography to be painted on his home, including the image of seven little angels. His aim was to discourage lovers from heading towards the “perdition” of the seven little devils.
And while it’s hard to say whether he achieved his goal, the street ended up keeping the name Siete Angelitos. Last century, Cusco’s mayor, Daniel Estrada Pérez, placed a stone carving of a little angel holding the number seven at this urban crossroads of good and evil.
Siete Angelitos is now a point of interest for tourists, where colonial history, local traditions, and moral reflection intertwine. The question is: which street would you prefer to be on?
2. Marqués de Valleumbroso Street
In Spanish colonial style, this street was laid out over a stretch of the Inca road. Its name honours Diego de Esquival y Jaraba, the Marquis of San Lorenzo de Valleumbroso, a distinguished figure who settled in Cusco in 1540, where he held important positions and amassed great wealth.
Esquival y Jaraba commissioned the construction of a grand mansion that became his family’s residence from 1560 onwards. With a blend of Inca and Spanish architectural elements, this house was one of the largest in the city until the 18th century.
During the Republican era, the house served various institutions, from the National Support System for Social Mobilization (Sinamos)—a body created during the revolutionary government of General Juan Velasco Alvarado—to the Cusco School of Fine Arts.
Marqués Street is known for its colonial architecture, intricately carved wooden balconies, and cobblestone pavement. As you stroll down this street, you’ll find craft shops, restaurants, cafes, and boutique hotels. It’s definitely worth a visit.
3. Amargura Street
A steep incline, a winding hill that the indigenous people had to climb over and over again, carrying the large stones used in the colonial constructions of Cusco’s Historic Centre.
These were steps marked by exploitation and bitterness, leading to tragedies. Men who could not endure would break down and fall down the slope. They died amid the indifference of those who forced them to carry those heavy blocks.
This is the story of Amargura Street or Hill, an urban space from which you can enjoy beautiful views of the city and the surrounding landscapes. It is a place that evokes grim moments but also serves as a reminder of the resilience and strength of the Cusco people.
4. Resbalosa Street
In the Inca era, this steep, cobblestoned street was part of the Tawantinsuyo road network, one of the most impressive on the planet. However, what will truly catch your attention is its Quechua name: Sikitakana.
The Spanish translation is quite curious and descriptive: “you hit your backside.” The reason? Its steep slope and slippery surface often put walkers in a difficult position, with many ending up taking a hard fall.
Due to so many tumbles, the street became known as Resbalosa, reflecting its past. Yes, its past, because today, the once-feared Sikitakana is a peaceful street lined with hotels and restaurants. It will take you to the San Cristóbal viewpoint and the archaeological park of Saqsaywaman.
5. Hospital Street
Don’t be surprised if you don’t find a hospital on this street. There isn’t one. Once, however, there was: the Hospital de Naturales del Cusco, which operated during the 16th and 17th centuries, serving only the indigenous population.
The first stone was laid on March 27, 1556, by order of the Municipal Council. But as nothing lasts forever, especially in a seismically active country like Peru, the earthquake of 1650 caused severe damage to the hospital’s infrastructure.
In 1688, the Church of San Pedro was built on the hospital’s site. With its Andean Baroque style, the church is located in the square of the same name, right in front of the bustling San Pedro Market. While you’re there, take the opportunity to sample some of the delicious dishes offered at this local market.
6. Garcilaso Street or Coca Street
Several names for the same street. It was first known as Castillo, named after a Spanish family who lived in the area. Later, it was called the Street of the Condemned, due to the legend of the “two fatal oaths” that tells of a forbidden love in the San Francisco temple.
According to the legend—which must have some truth to it—two stone crosses were placed at the intersection of Coca and Marqués Streets, later moved to the door of San Francisco Church.
In 1744, perhaps to shake off such a grim name as Condemned, the street began to be called Esquivel, after a Spanish citizen. This changed in 1746 when the name Coca Street was adopted.
The name comes from “la flor de coca,” the nickname for Margarita Ginés, who bought a house on this street after marrying and then becoming a widow.
Today, the street is named Garcilaso in honor of the distinguished mestizo writer Inca Garcilaso de la Vega (1539-1616), who was born here. It’s easy to recognize as it is home to the Museo Histórico Regional de Cusco. When you’re there, make sure to visit it. It’s well worth the trip!
7. Loreto Street
It is one of the oldest streets in Cusco, a historical route that, in pre-Hispanic times, connected Amarucancha (the House of the Great Serpent) with Acllawasi (the House of the Chosen Women). It is an archaeological gem due to the imposing stone wall from what was once the palace of Inca Huayna Capac.
Before the arrival of the Spanish, it was called Intik’ijllu, the Alley of the Sun. It was during the colonial era that it acquired its current name: Loreto, in reference to the chapel of Our Lady of Loreto that was built on this street.
Loreto is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and representative streets in Cusco, so you should walk along it several times. We guarantee that with each visit, you’ll discover a detail you hadn’t noticed before.
8. Hatun Rumiyoc Street
If you want your steps to tread a sacred path, explore Hatun Rumiyoc, the Street of the Great Rock. This Inca road once connected ceremonial and administrative centers in the time when Cusco was the heart of the Andean world.
On Hatun Rumiyoc, you’ll be struck by the stone wall from the palace of Inca Roca and the famous Twelve-Angle Stone, a magnificent testament to the skill and craftsmanship of pre-Hispanic architects.
Now a symbol of the city and Andean culture, the stone attracts the gaze of all travelers, so be prepared to wait and have a bit of patience to fully appreciate it.
Take advantage of your walk to admire the colonial buildings that were erected over the ancient palaces of the Sun’s children. This fusion of styles is part of the essence of modern Cusco, the Andean and Spanish Cusco that is a World Heritage Site.
9. Cuesta del Almirante
Francisco Alderete Maldonado is the admiral who inspired the name of this Cusco hill. And it’s not that he was a hero from the history books. His greatest achievement was commissioning the construction of his house in the 17th century.
With its Renaissance façade and impressive Inca wall, the Admiral’s House is a notable example of colonial Cusco architecture, so much so that the hill ended up adopting the name of its most representative building.
Over the years and centuries, the colonial residence served various purposes. It was the seat of the Archbishopric of Cusco and the Government House of Marshal Andrés de Santa Cruz, the driving force behind the Peru-Bolivian Confederation.
Today, its rooms house the Museo Inka, which showcases an important collection of ceramics, textiles, agricultural tools, and other pre-Inca and Inca artifacts. Admiral’s Hill is a prominent tourist spot in Cusco. Make sure to include it in your itinerary and be amazed by its historical, architectural, and cultural significance.
10. Siete Diablitos Street
Devils!… Seven wicked and mischievous devils once roamed one of Cusco’s colonial streets, frightening both residents and visitors. That’s what was said back in the day, and it’s still the tale told today when travellers ask about the origin of this infernal name.
During your visit, focus on enjoying the walk along this narrow, cobblestoned street and admire its well-preserved colonial houses, which are now filled with mystery. Many of these buildings have been transformed into artisan shops, restaurants, and cafés.
Siete Diablitos Street is a popular spot that reminds us of the influence of folklore and oral tradition on the daily life of the Cusco people.
11. Choquechaka Street
In the Andes, the Incas created an extensive road network connecting the four regions or suyus of their empire. With the arrival of the Spanish, several sections of the Qhapaq Ñan or Great Road were transformed into urban streets or thoroughfares.
Such is the case with Choquechaka, a Quechua name derived from “chuqui” and “chaka,” meaning “bridge of gold or copper.” In the colonial Cusco, this stretch of the Inca road was renamed Almudena.
When you visit, you’ll be struck by its colonial and republican houses, with the house of Choquechaka standing out among them. Look for it by its numbering (366-384).
Today, Choquechaka is more than just a street; it is an important tourist and commercial hub in the Historic Centre of Cusco.
12. Tambo de Montero Street
In 1643, clandestine meetings and secret religious ceremonies took place at the inn or lodging of the Spanishman Pedro Montero de Espinosa. Rumours swirling around described a group of Jews allegedly desecrating the Catholic faith in various ways, including whipping a depiction of Christ.
In response to these growing rumours, both civil and ecclesiastical authorities were not content with merely raising an outcry. They acted decisively, raiding, arresting, and confiscating Montero’s assets. His supposed accomplices met a similar fate.
The detainees, under orders from the corregidor sent to Cusco by Viceroy Pedro de Toledo y Leyva, Marquis of Mancera, were transported to Lima to be tried by the Tribunal of the Holy Office, the feared Spanish Inquisition.
The history of Tambo de Montero Street is marked by these meetings. What transpired in those clandestine gatherings remains, and will continue to be, a mystery and a source of intrigue.
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